Alice Huang 7/14/21 Alice Huang 7/14/21

The Little One — A Labor of Love

*Eddie Zheng (left) and his wife, Olivia Leung (right)*

As someone who has a huge sweet tooth, I love pretty much any kind of dessert. However, if I had to narrow it down, my two favorite types of desserts in the world would have to be frozen desserts and lava cakes (prove me wrong, but Carnival Cruise Line has one of the best chocolate lava cakes ever — I ate one every day on my spring break cruise to Mexico during my junior year of college). One of my absolute favorite frozen desserts is Asian shaved ice (yes — this is different from American shaved ice). So when Welcome to Chinatown asked me to interview the owners of The Little One, a cute little Japanese-style dessert shop that specializes in Japanese shaved ice, I was super excited.

I first heard about The Little One on an episode of BuzzFeed’s Worth It series on YouTube. The minimalistic interior and the simple-yet-unique desserts immediately caught my attention, and I totally understand why it’s one of Worth It creator Steven Lim’s favorite dessert places. From the cute branded spoons to the picture-perfect ice cream sandwiches to the heaps of fluffy shaved ice, The Little One is a place that will please any dessert lover. Plus, they have a few dairy-free options on their menu, which is perfect for someone like me who is trying to avoid dairy. If this post isn’t enough to convince you to give them a try, then head over to their ~ a e s t h e t i c ~ Instagram page and scroll through an endless wonderland of too-cute-to-eat creations.

During this time of uncertainty and elevated violence against Asians in America, it’s more important than ever to give Asian communities a voice and tell their stories. I hope that Eddie and Olivia’s story can provide an additional perspective and help build the bridge of understanding and acceptance that we so desperately need.

*****

The Little One is a Japanese-style dessert shop that makes high quality, Japanese-inspired shaved ice and desserts. After leaving their day jobs to attend the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) and completing stints at top NYC restaurants and bakeries, Eddie Zheng and his wife, Olivia Leung, opened the shop in 2017 on the street they both grew up on. Their store is a labor of love — their “little one,” as they like to call it. Each dessert is handcrafted with the utmost care, and the unique flavor combinations are influenced by Eddie and Olivia’s travels in Japan as well as their daily lives in the States.

Hōjicha kakigōri

Tell us about your business and who you are!

Hi! We’re Eddie and Olivia, the husband and wife team behind The Little One — a Japanese-style dessert shop located at 150 East Broadway. We opened our store in 2017 and make high quality, Japanese-inspired desserts. We fell in love with Japanese desserts and culture during our trips to Japan and were inspired to bring high quality, Japanese-style desserts to NYC.

We are popular for unique desserts such as kakigōri (Japanese shaved ice) and monaka ice cream sandwiches (a Japanese ice cream sandwich that uses thin, crispy wafers typically made from mochi flour).

Chrysanthemum monaka ice cream sandwich with Andrew’s local honey

Could you please provide us with some background on yourself?

Olivia and I both grew up in Chinatown, and both our parents had shops on East Broadway. We first met at Columbus Park while playing basketball together as kids. Before starting The Little One, Olivia worked at the Chinatown YMCA, and I worked in marketing. We are both big foodies, but we never thought of making a career of it until Olivia started to take an interest in baking. I encouraged her to chase her dreams, and we enrolled together at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE). Olivia went on to work at bakeries such as Dominique Ansel Bakery and Tous Les Jours, and I worked at restaurants such as wd~50, The Elm, and La Sirena. After honing our skills, we opened our own dessert shop on the street we grew up on.

How did you come up with the name “The Little One”?

The “One” in The Little One stands for “Olivia ‘n Eddie.” Our little store is our “little one.”

What is your favorite dessert on your menu?

One of our favorites is our best seller: the hōjicha kakigōri. We love hōjicha (roasted green tea) because we would always have it when visiting Japan. This kakigōri has the perfect balance of bitterness from the tea, sweetness from the syrup, creaminess from the whipped cream, and tartness from the lime zest. We were inspired by the Arnold Palmer — a classic American drink that combines iced tea and lemonade — and wanted to create something that would be refreshing on a hot summer day. It was fun developing this dessert because hōjicha has such a complex flavor profile — it’s toasty, nutty, sweet, and caramelly all at once.

*Yogurt and strawberry homemade Calpico sodas*

How did the COVID shutdowns in 2020 impact your business?

We had a baby a week before the city shut down. At the time, we didn’t think much of it because we assumed COVID was going to go away in a few months. Plus, we got to spend more time with our newborn and basically take our maternity and paternity leave at the same time. But as COVID continued to get worse, we decided to shut down for four months. We eventually began questioning whether we could keep our shop alive at all.

Ultimately, we decided to keep pushing and negotiated an agreement with our landlord that allowed us to keep doing what we love. We opened back up in July 2020. Even though we reopened during the summer busy season, when sales typically peak, our revenues were still down 60%. Since there was initially no indoor dining, we had to adapt our menu — which was based on a dine-in concept — to be delivery / takeout friendly. We joined third party delivery apps to reach more customers and created cookie tins for the holiday season to help us get through the winter months. We also added some new menu items such as specialty cakes for celebratory occasions, and we have received great feedback on the cakes so far.

The thing that got us through the hardest days was the overwhelming amount of love and support from our regulars and new customers. We witnessed the true power of the Chinatown community, and we really appreciate everyone that came to our shop during the pandemic to support us or even just to check up on how we were doing.

How has Welcome to Chinatown (WTC) and the Longevity Fund grant helped your business?

WTC has helped us in more ways than we thought were possible. WTC graciously created a T-shirt, mug, and tote bag for us with 100% of the proceeds going to our store. WTC also provided us with multiple opportunities to participate in community events, such as the Chinatown Food Crawl and programs for giving back to nurses and volunteers.

We are going to use the grant proceeds to help pay rent and operating costs. The grant has helped us push forward during this difficult time. We are very grateful for what WTC has done for small businesses and the Chinatown community.

Any advice you would like to give to other small business owners trying to survive during COVID?

Take it one day at a time, make smart decisions, and stick to your plan. Honestly, we are still making changes every day and are still just trying to survive. Everyone’s situation is different, and we are grateful that we’ve been lucky enough to stay open.

*Assortment of monaka ice cream sandwiches*

What has been your greatest accomplishment or proudest moment as a business owner?

Our proudest moment is the opening of The Little One. We didn’t have much capital to start with, and we made do with what we had. We’ve hit many milestones over the years, and having the store come as far as it has is something we are very proud of.

What has been your biggest challenge?

Our biggest challenge was when we had to sit down and think about how to keep our doors open. Mentally, we were both prepared to close our doors permanently if our talks with our landlord didn’t go well. We had to make many sacrifices to stay open, and we are still making sacrifices to this day. Every day, we wonder how well we could have done without the COVID setback.

Any plans for the future?

We hope to continue doing what we both love to do at The Little One and introduce more new desserts.

What do you hope your legacy will be? I.e., 50 years from now when people think back and remember The Little One, what do you want them to remember?

We would like people to remember that we were not just a social media dessert trend and that Olivia and I put a lot of care and time into every one of our desserts. We believe that people shouldn’t have to spend a fortune for quality dessert, and we hope that people will remember us for bringing affordable, delicious, and unique desserts to NYC.

How can people support your business?

Come for dessert! Give us a shout out and spread the word.

Anything else you would like people to know or talk about?

Chinatown businesses need more support than ever. Try to call in and order from restaurants directly rather than use third party delivery apps because those apps charge insanely high fees. Also, tip the staff even if there is no dine-in option. Many people believe that it’s unnecessary to tip when they are getting takeout, but tipping goes a long way for foodservice workers.

*****

Support The Little One by buying some cute merch here!

Chinatown establishments like The Little One are what makes the spirit of our neighborhood. We need your support — now more than ever before — to keep that spirit alive. Please consider making a donation to our small business relief fund, The Longevity Fund, or help us spread the word of what’s at stake. Together, we can preserve Chinatown businesses and help say Chinatown will always be open for business.

Photo Credit: Fuxuan Xin, The Little One

Alice Huang 1/21/21 Alice Huang 1/21/21

LA Archives: Tsujita LA & Annex — Best Noodles in the World

First visit: July 2016
Price: Affordable
Cuisine: Japanese
Vibe: Cozy with bar-style seating and upbeat, instrumental music
Addresses: 2057 Sawtelle Blvd (Tsujita LA) and 2050 Sawtelle Blvd (Tsujita Annex), Los Angeles, CA
Veg options: There are two vegan ramen options!
COVID-19 delivery: Yes! Order through their website

Over the holidays, I finally had a chance to dig through my archives and draft up some posts about my favorite places on the West Coast. Even though I didn’t formally publish my first post until last year, I’ve been building the foundation for my blog for the past few years. During my senior year of college and throughout my subsequent two years working in Los Angeles, I kept track of all the new restaurants I visited and would take pictures of every new dish I tried. Granted, most of my photos from back then were either taken with Snapchat / Instagram Stories and the quality isn’t the best, so please don’t judge me for the grainy pictures that will be prevalent throughout this series!

I’ve loved food ever since starting university (I never ate at restaurants before that!), but LA is where my passion really blossomed. For those of you who don’t know, I did investment banking for two years after graduating college. Eating with friends on weekends was one of the few opportunities I had to disconnect from the stresses of my job. There’s a saying that food is the simplest form of travel, and I totally concur. Living in the middle of the melting pot that is LA, I was able to immerse myself in cultures from all over the world without wandering out of the ten-mile radius in which I lived and worked. Trying new restaurants was a welcome distraction from my work, but also an opportunity to learn about foods and cuisines I’d never heard of before. It was in LA that I discovered what is probably my favorite restaurant duo in the whole world: Tsujita LA Artisan Noodle and its across-the-street sister restaurant, Tsujita Annex.

*Pictured here is ramen, tsukemen, and rice bowls from the original Tsujita (PC: The Tsujita Team)*

Towards the end of my junior year summer internship, Chris, one of my best friends and former Sheng Kee coworkers (yes, I used to work at an Asian bakery!), introduced me to Tsujita LA Artisan Noodle, a Japanese noodle shop on Sawtelle Blvd that specializes in tsukemen.

Tsukemen — a.k.a “dipping noodle” — is a sub-genre of ramen that consists of thick, cold noodles served with a rich, hot dipping broth. Not to be confused with the noodles used for dipping soba, tsukemen noodles are made with wheat flour rather than buckwheat flour and are much thicker and chewier. If the broth is what makes ramen, then the noodles are what make tsukemen.

I’d never heard of tsukemen until trying Tsujita, but it instantly became my favorite type of noodle dish after I took my first bite. I was half delirious from sleeping only two to three hours a day for the past few weeks (this was during my banking internship when I worked 100+ hours a week), but the springy texture of the noodles and the rich umami of the broth woke up my senses in a way I’d never experienced before.

*Really blurry Snapchat lol, circa summer 2017*

When I flew back to LA to start my full time job after graduating college, Tsujita was the first restaurant I visited. The day I moved into my apartment, I landed at LAX pretty late at night. My roommate was already asleep, so I let myself in with a key that she had left for me under the mat. I was moving into a fully furnished room, so I didn’t have much tidying up to do before passing out. The next morning, I immediately took an Uber to Tsujita to relive my summer internship experience. I got there just as they opened, so I didn’t have to wait in the line, which can be up to two hours long on busy days. Everything — from the instrumental drumming music that played in the store, to the warm “Irasshaimase!” that the staff would shout out every time someone walked into the restaurant, to the irresistible smell of the dipping broth — was exactly as I'd remembered.

During my first year, I didn’t know a soul in the part of LA where I lived, so having a familiar restaurant so close to me brought me great comfort. I visited Tsujita once a month, if not once a week (my metabolism was significantly better back then… if I did that today, I would look like a potato in no time). I introduced every person I knew to Tsujita. I started by converting my roommates, then my coworkers, then Patrick (we were long distance at the time, so it was a while before he came to LA to visit for the first time), and then any of my friends who happened to be visiting LA. Over time, Tsujita became more than a noodle shop to me; it became a collection of memories and a place of comfort.

I thought that I had experienced the best that the noodle kingdom had to offer — until I tried Tsujita Annex. I know this may be a controversial opinion, but I like Tsujita Annex even more than I like the original Tsujita. Chris, the friend who first introduced me to the Tsujita franchise, does not agree, but hey, this blog isn’t about him (Chris, if you’re reading this, you are wrong). Luckily, Patrick does agree with me! The rest of this post is a detailed breakdown of why Tsujita (both the original location and Annex) are so damn good, followed by a guide for what to order when you go to either location and a recommendation for a similar tsukemen shop in NYC.

The Broth (and Condiments)

The main difference between Tsujita and Tsujita Annex is the broth. The original Tsujita uses a thicker, richer broth that has a prominent seafood flavor and the consistency of heavy whipping cream. Because of its richness, the broth is served in a smaller bowl than the bowl used for the noodles. I personally love the taste of the broth, but some people, like Patrick, don’t like the fishiness as much. They give you some lime to squeeze over your noodles to prevent sticking and to temper the richness of the broth. You can also add a special spicy pickled condiment (I recently found out that it’s called spicy takana) that they have at all the tables to reduce the seafood-y taste, but be aware that whatever they use for the condiment is extremely spicy, which I personally really like. At the end of your meal, you have the option to add a light, dashi broth to your leftover dipping broth in order to make it drinkable (they call it “Soup Wari”). I personally skip this step because I try to watch my sodium intake, but I know a lot of people who really enjoy drinking the broth as a way to wash down the meal.

*The broth at Annex topped with a generous helping of onikasu (PC: The Tsujita Team)*

Tsujita Annex, on the other hand, utilizes a lighter broth that has a vinegar base. The broth has the consistency of chicken soup and is served in a large bowl filled to the brim with beansprouts. To counter the lightness of the broth, there is a layer of oil and chunks of pork fat floating on top that provide a delectable creaminess when mixed in with the soup base. However, the best part of Tsujita Annex isn’t the broth itself-- it’s the toppings that you can add for free. At every table and section of the counter, there is a condiment stand that provides a free supply of two of my favorite ingredients in the world: raw garlic and a homemade spicy powder called onikasu. I’ve only ever seen this powder at Tsujita Annex, and I’ve never tasted anything like it. If they sold this stuff separately, I would buy it in bulk because it is just THAT good. It’s not particularly spicy, but it has such a depth of flavor that it completely transforms the bowl of soup. Pair that with a few cloves of crushed raw garlic, and you’ve got a killer combo that will leave you crying but wanting more.

Now, a warning: Some people may not be able to handle the oiliness of the Tsujita Annex broth. I know a few people who didn’t have a great time the night of their first time having the Annex tsukemen but, even then, they still said it was worth the experience. Being Chinese, I grew up eating pork fat my whole life, so I have no issues whatsoever with this kind of stuff, but consider yourself forewarned! If anything, you just have to build up your tolerance. ;)

The Noods

The noodles at both the original Tsujita and Tsujita Annex are hands down THE BEST noodles I’ve ever had in my life (both locations use the same noodles), and I’ve had a LOT of noodles over the years. They have the perfect QQ texture and, despite being thicc af, are able to grab the perfect amount of broth each time. If you just gave me those noodles and a bowl of soy sauce, I’d be a happy camper. There’s really not much else to say about the noodles besides the fact that you’re missing out on what are probably the best noodles in the whole freaking world if you don’t get in a plane, train, or car right this very second to go try them out.

The Eggs

Both the original Tsujita and Tsujita Annex use the same eggs (I’ve seen staff members run across the street between the two locations with containers full of marinated eggs), and the eggs are always PERFECT. They’re probably the best soft-boiled eggs I’ve ever had, including all the ones I had in Japan. The yolk is always a rich, chrysanthemum gold, and the consistency is unlike anything I’ve ever had — it’s custardy, runny, and firm all at the same time, which creates an indescribable sensation when you bite into it. The yolk also tastes subtly sweet, likely from the soy sauce marinade that they soak the eggs in prior to serving. The contrast between the sweet yolk and umami outer layer is the definition of happiness in one bite.

The Chashu and Toppings

*Thick slices of chashu from the original Tsujita — you can get this for a little extra! (PC: The Tsujita Team)*

You know something is good when the meat is just a side character. Although the chashu (braised pork belly) is delicious, it isn’t a necessary part of the tsukemen experience. The standard orders at the original Tsujita and Tsujita Annex both come with small bits of chashu in the broth, so I never add chashu to my order. However, if you’re a huge meat lover with a big appetite, both locations have a version of the tsukemen with extra slices of chashu that is sure to delight any pork lover.

The portion sizes at both locations are HUGE (the portions at Annex are even bigger than the portions at the original Tsujita), so I rarely get any additional toppings. However, on days that I’m feeling particularly spendy, I might indulge in some extra green onions or menma (fermented bamboo shoots) to add a little extra crunch to my meal. I have a friend who really loves the bean sprouts at Annex, so he always gets extra bean sprouts when he’s there. When I’m REALLY hungry, I’ll sometimes order an extra serving of noodles to share with a friend, but I’ve only done that a handful of times and was out of commission for the rest of the day each time.

What to Order

*Annex — onikasu and garlic in jars on the left*

The below are what I recommend ordering for your first time at either location. I ONLY ever order the tsukemen. I know people who’ve tried the ramen and have been disappointed, so I would urge you to not be basic and to steer away from the familiar option. Trust in the process. If you end up ordering the ramen and don’t like it, I don’t even want to hear about it.

Tsujita LA Artisan Noodles — Order the Ajitama Tsukemen (tsukemen with egg). Add a little bit of the spicy takana that they have on the tables (it’s a dark brown / black color). Squeeze the lime over your noodles (ask for extra lime if needed). Order extra noodles if you’re hungry. Ask for the “Soup Wari” after you’re done with the noodles.

Tsujita Annex — Ajitama Tsukemen (tsukemen with egg). Add a big mound of onikasu to the broth (as much as you can handle). Crush in a few cloves of garlic (the more the better!). Order extra noodles if you’re hungry.

After your meal, head to B Sweet Dessert Bar down the street to detox with some insane desserts, such as hot ube bread pudding with vanilla ice cream (my favorite), their famous halo halo, or the sluttiest brownie (per their website: “made with 5 layers of sin: chocolate chip cookie, Oreo cookie, graham cracker, marshmallow and yup... brownie”).

Note: If you tried Tsujita or Annex for the first time during COVID via delivery, you have to go back after on-premise dining opens back up again. It’s just not the same delivered.

Tsukemen in NYC?

When I moved to New York, I was desperate to find a place that could satisfy my constant Tsujita cravings. Luckily for me, an alumni of Tsujita LA started his own tsukemen restaurant, Tabetomo, in the East Village. Tabetomo is more like Annex than the original Tsujita, and they fancify their tsukemen by giving you a hot stone to put in your broth whenever you want to get it warmed up. They also have a sister stall called Tomotomo in the Urbanspace on W 52nd Street, but that one has a completely different style of soup and is currently closed due to COVID. I could write an entire post about Tabetomo but, long story short, it’s very, very good — just not as good as either of the Tsujitas in LA. However, if tsukemen is what you’re craving and you don’t want to fork over hundreds of dollars for a flight to LA, Tabetomo will do the trick.

Soon after this pandemic is over, I’ll be on a flight to LA so that I can reunite with my favorite restaurant(s) in the world. Until then, I’ll keep writing about places I want to visit again while sitting on my bed in my sweatsuit.

In Summary:

Hangry Alice rating: 5/5
Must-get dish: Ajitama Tsukemen (tsukemen with egg)
Skip: The ramen — I’ve never had it, but they’re most well-known for the tsukemen, so definitely get that if it’s your first time

Alice Huang 8/19/20 Alice Huang 8/19/20

Raspberry Matcha Latte — A Recipe and Mini Origin Story

*The first raspberry matcha latte that I made!*

I’ve always been a fan of strawberry matcha lattes. Boba Guys has a great one, as does Percolate (my FAVORITE boba place in LA). However, instead of paying $10+ to get one delivered to me, I decided to try and make one myself!

Instead of just making a basic strawberry matcha latte, I put a little twist on it and made a raspberry matcha latte. Raspberries are one of my favorite fruits ever, and I figured that the tartness would pair well with the bitter / earthy flavors of the matcha. I was right! I’ve been drinking this latte almost every day this week, and I especially like drinking it in the afternoons when I’m just a liiittle hungry but not hungry enough to snack on anything substantial.

Potential Benefits of Matcha

For those of you who typically need a little pick-me-up during this time of day, this drink is perfect for you. The sweetness of the homemade syrup will give you a little energy boost, while the naturally occurring, slow-release nature of the caffeine in the matcha powder will help you sustain that energy through the rest of the work day without causing you to crash. This characteristic of matcha (and of most other teas) is what makes it a unique source of caffeine. The amino acid L-theanine (present in all tea leaves; it’s what gives tea its distinct umami flavor profile) promotes relaxation and harmonizes with the caffeine to deliver a calming, smooth wave of alertness.

In addition, because you are consuming the whole tea leaf when you drink matcha (vs. just drinking tea water), you are by default consuming more vitamins, minerals and antioxidants than you would by just brewing up some green tea! There are sources all over the internet that tout the superfood properties of matcha and how it can do things like boost your metabolism and help lower cholesterol levels.

I am not a doctor by the way (much to my parents’ dismay), so please don’t quote me! If you want to learn more about the benefits of matcha, you can click here, here or here.

Origins of Matcha

Of course, before posting this recipe, I had to do a little homework on the origins of matcha. Although matcha has only recently become mainstream in America, it’s been around for over a thousand years. I’d always thought that matcha originated in Japan, but turns out it actually has roots in China!

Apparently, during China’s Tang Dynasty (which began in 618 and ended in 907), tea traders would mix pulverized tea leaves with salt and steam the mixture to form stackable blocks that made the tea easier to transport and trade. Then, during the Song Dynasty (from 960 to 1279), Zen Buddhists began making powdered tea from the dried tea leaf blocks and would make the powder into a drink by whisking it with hot water. During this time, a Japanese Buddhist Monk who was studying in China brought some tea powder back with him to Japan, where the method of making matcha was perfected and woven into the the country’s cultural traditions and history.

The incorporation of matcha into specialty drinks and desserts (matcha ice cream, matcha crepe cake, matcha Kit Kat, etc.) is a relatively recent phenomenon (within the past 2 - 3 decades) and seems to be getting more and more popular as East Asian ingredients and flavors have become more mainstream. Back when I was in high school, many of my friends had never even heard of matcha before, and Starbucks didn’t even have a matcha latte on their menu yet (it might have been called “green tea latte” or some other obscure name, but I definitely don’t remember seeing the word “matcha” anywhere on the menu)!

Today, you can find matcha of various grades all throughout Japan— from the free matcha offered at hot water stations in conveyor belt sushi bars to the expensive, ceremonial grade matcha used for traditional tea ceremonies, that varieties of matcha that are available for purchase can be overwhelming at times.

I will say this though: the type and grade of matcha that you buy DOES make a difference. I’ve had so many friends and family members tell me that they hate the taste of matcha, only to change their minds after having a cup of good matcha (Patrick, I am looking at you). Do NOT just blindly buy the first matcha that you see on Amazon! My two favorite stores to get matcha from are Lupicia (the best bang for your buck) and Ippodo (they have a physical store in NYC). Ippodo has a nice guide on their website that outlines the different types of matcha and explains the different flavor profiles of each type.

As always, I am not a historian, so please forgive me and let me know if I’m butchering any aspects of the history behind matcha. This is just a very abbreviated summary of what I’ve gathered from reading articles online.

*This one’s a strawberry + raspberry matcha latte!*

The Recipe (2 servings)

Utensils needed:

Matcha whisk (yes, this is absolutely necessary)
Small bowl for whisking
Clear glass jar or mug
Reusable straw (trust me on this one; it tastes better through a straw)

For the syrup:

Ingredients:

6 oz raspberries
Sweetener of choice (monk fruit sweetener works really well for this recipe, and there’s no weird aftertaste!)
Water
OPTIONAL: 1 TSP of corn (or other vegetable) starch

Steps:

Wash a small, 6 oz container of raspberries, and put them in a mini saucepan
Fill the saucepan with just enough water so that the berries are about 1/3 of the way submerged
Pour your sweetener of choice over the berries. You can be generous! This is meant to be a concentrated syrup, so it’s okay if it tastes too sweet at first; you can always just use less syrup in the drink. With raspberries, you definitely want to add enough sweetener, or else the tartness of the berries will overwhelm the whole drink
Simmer on low heat over the stove top for about 10 minutes
OPTIONAL: Dilute 1 TSP of corn starch or another vegetable starch in 1 TSP of water and stir into the pot. This will help the syrup thicken into a nice, “jammy” consistency. However, I don’t really like using fillers in my food, so I would personally skip this step
Let the syrup cool down

For the drink: