Spicy Moon — Defining Hospitality Amidst Adversity
Spicy Moon’s new location in West Village
A few months ago, after I had published my first post about Spicy Moon, the chef / owner of the restaurant, Nick, messaged me on Instagram to tell me that he had enjoyed reading my post. This came as a complete shock to me, as I didn’t think anyone besides Patrick and a few of my coworkers were reading my blog, let alone the owners of the places that I was writing about. It was right around this time that I was thinking about starting my “COVID Anthologies” series, where I would tell the stories of extraordinary restaurants in this unordinary, new world. In my response to Nick, I decided to shoot my shot and ask if he would be willing to let me interview him for this series. To my delight, he agreed enthusiastically!
A few weeks later, I made my way down to Spicy Moon’s new West Village location for a weekend al fresco lunch and to meet Nick in person. I went with Patrick and one of our close friends and old roommates, Stu, who had never been to Spicy Moon before. We ordered our usual favorites (dan dan noodles, pea leaves with garlic) as well as a few new dishes. Of the new dishes that we tried, our favorite was the salt and pepper eggplant, which was piping hot, delicately crispy and packed full of umami. Ever since we tried that dish for the first time, Patrick and I have been ordering it every single time we get Spicy Moon. Unsurprisingly, Stu absolutely loved the food and agreed with me that Spicy Moon has the best dan dan noodles he’s ever had. Side note: Stu is allergic to both dairy and nuts, so the dan dan noodles at Spicy Moon were perfect for him because they are both dairy free (by default, since they are vegan) and nut free (they use sesame paste instead of peanut sauce).
After we finished eating, I sat down with Nick at a table outside and got my pen and notebook ready. Being the procrastinator that I am and a newbie to this whole interview thing, I had frantically come up with a rough outline of the questions I wanted to ask Nick while on the subway ride to Spicy Moon. I was super nervous in the moments leading up to the interview but, luckily, Nick is a very friendly person, and our conversation flowed naturally without much effort on my part.
Salt & pepper eggplant ($17.95)
The Early Days
Nick opened Spicy Moon with his wife, who became vegan after finishing college in Chengdu and immigrating to the US. Nick and his wife met while they were both working in a traditional Sichuan restaurant in NYC. Back then, most Chinese restaurants either didn’t understand veganism or didn’t have respect for true veganism. To this day, most Chinese restaurants cook vegetables in the same pots, sauces, and oils that they use to cook meat. Oftentimes, veggies are fried in lard, and homemade chili oil is sometimes made using animal fat. When vegans frequent these restaurants, they are often just told, “This dish is vegan,” even if there are animal ingredients present. Most of the time, this isn’t because of any desire to deceive but, rather, the result of a genuine lack of understanding of what veganism entails. In the minds of many Chinese restaurant owners and employees, vegan simply means any vegetable dish, regardless of the ingredients used.
Due to this dynamic, Nick’s wife would always bring her own food into the restaurant for meals rather than eat the dishes made at the restaurant where they both worked. When she floated the idea of starting a vegan Sichuan restaurant with Nick, Nick thought she was crazy. What dishes would they make? Who would come? How would they get Sichuan chefs who were willing to cook vegan? After all, in Chinese culture, and particularly in Sichuan culture, meat is associated with health, wealth and prosperity. In a sense, eating meat is seen as a prerequisite for sustaining life. Unless you are a Buddhist monk, vegetarianism and veganism are extremely rare in China due to the overwhelmingly connotations associated with a carnivorous diet. However, Nick eventually gave in and together, he and his wife opened their first location in East Village.
Dan dan noodles ($12.95)
As you can probably imagine, opening a vegan Sichuan restaurant came with a host of challenges. For one, adapting traditional Sichuan recipes to utilize solely vegan ingredients took a ton of work. Everything— from the types of seasoning to the ratios of the ingredients— had to be adjusted, as veggies have a different absorption rate than meat. However, after much trial and error, Nick and his wife were able to recreate some of the most beloved Sichuan dishes such as dan dan noodles and wontons in chili oil, without sacrificing taste or tradition. In additional to serving up a host of traditional Sichuan dishes such as double cooked beyond sausage and mápó tofu, Nick has taken advantage of the creative freedom that operating his own restaurant has afforded him and has created a few Chinese fusion dishes, such as mountain yam (known as shānyào in Chinese) vegan cheese puffs, Sichuan guacamole, “honey” walnut edamame nuggets and peppercorn brussels sprouts. Brussels sprouts are very rare in Asian cuisine, but are very trendy in the U.S., so Nick wanted to create a dish that highlighted flavors of Sichuan cuisine while taking advantage of trendy ingredients.
To Nick’s surprise, people loved Spicy Moon! Most restaurants bleed cash the first two years and grow slowly, but Spicy Moon started gaining good momentum after only six to eight months. Most of this momentum was driven by word-of-mouth and by the NYC influencer community, which Nick has a very good relationship with. Fun fact: I actually first heard about Spicy Moon from an influencer named Crystal Pang who goes by the Instagram handle @veganeatsnyc.
Fried vegetable dumplings ($9.95)
Demonstrating Hospitality during COVID-19
Over time, Nick and his wife started coming up with more and more menu items, and Spicy Moon blossomed in popularity. In February 2020, a few weeks before the state-mandated restaurant closures, they opened their second location in the West Village. Unfortunately, by the time the pandemic was tearing through NYC in full force, they were already locked into their lease and had no alternative but to continue operating as much as the city would allow. Eventually, they were forced to close down both locations towards the end of March and weren’t able to reopen until the end of May.
“It was horrible, and we had no other choice,” Nick stated as he recalled the first few weeks of the shut-downs. He paused, leaned back in his chair, and told me, “When we were signing our lease in the fall last year, we went to a Chinese fortune teller. She warned us that this was coming. She told us that the first half of 2020 would be full of bad luck, since the year of the rat signifies the start of a new Chinese zodiac cycle, but that things would improve in the second half of the year. I don’t usually believe in fortune telling and all this zodiac stuff, but I find it interesting that, so far, things have been playing out exactly as she had predicted.”
Málà wet jerky strips ($8.95)
However, despite the seemingly insurmountable challenge that the pandemic had presented, Nick and his wife found ways to continue serving their community. For 10 weeks while the restaurant was closed, the couple donated over 1,000 meals to people in need and frontline workers by partnering with community organizations. One notable organization that Spicy Moon partnered with is Chilis on Wheels, a non-profit that aims to make veganism accessible to all by providing hot, vegan meals to individuals and families in need. In addition to cooking and packaging ready-to-eat meals, Spicy Moon also donated fresh produce to local agencies and pantries in order to support their meal preparation efforts.
When I asked Nick why he participated in all these food donation programs, he told me that, in his view, food donation should be a requirement for restaurants, as the essence of any foodservice business is hospitality. “When you think of hospitality,” Nick pondered, “you think of the weary traveler knocking at your front door in search of warm food and shelter.” His eyes wandered off into the distance. “To me, that’s what you’re signing up for when you open a restaurant. By hanging up the “open” sign, you promise to never turn anyone away and to be a provider of warmth and comfort in times of need.” I sat in silence for a few moments while jotting this down. Wow, what a powerful image. No wonder why Nick greeted me like family when I first walked up to Spicy Moon, despite never having met me before.
Chive and JUST Egg dumplings ($11.95)
Challenges and Legacy
As Nick reflected on how far Spicy Moon has come over the years, he concluded that their biggest challenge, aside from COVID, has been finding and retaining Chinese chefs who are willing to cook vegan Chinese food. Most Chinese chefs in NYC are on the older side and are very loyal to traditional methods of Chinese cooking (this is especially true of Sichuanese chefs). As a result, they tend to have a difficult time accepting changes to recipes that they grew up with. There were a few Chinese chefs who straight up quit because they felt uncomfortable working in Spicy Moon’s all-vegan kitchen. Although there are many younger vegan Asian chefs out there these days (for example, I follow a young, Taiwanese chef who’s an undergrad at UC Berkeley and goes by the handle @chez.jorge on Instagram)— especially in vegan-friendly countries like Taiwan and Singapore— there aren’t that many in NYC, and it’s difficult to attract the few who do live in the city.
Towards the end of our chat, I asked Nick one final question: 50 years from now, when people think about Spicy Moon (crossing my fingers that it will still be around then), what do you want them to remember? Without hesitation, Nick replied, “Our fair labor practices and how much we valued our customers.”
Fair labor practices are an interesting point. The restaurant industry in American is notorious for underpaying workers and other questionable labor practices, such as refusing to grant overtime. In fact, the entire tradition of tipping in the United States has a troubling history and arose from a desire to pay workers the bare minimum in order to maximize profits. In some places, foodservice workers live entirely off tips and are forced to take on multiple jobs in order to even begin making a living(1). At Spicy Moon, Nick and his wife have made it their mission to ensure that all of their employees are able to make a living wage and readily offer overtime opportunities to their chefs. After all, hospitality runs in the couples’ blood, and how can you claim to be a business in the hospitality industry if you don’t treat your employees with kindness?
As I was leaving, I remarked to Nick that the funky neon tape decorating both Spicy Moon locations was an interesting touch. “Ah yes,” Nick explained as he pressed down the corner of a piece of tape that had begun peeling due to sun exposure, “This was done by a local tape artist. He comes back to change up the designs once in a while.” I don’t know why, but the thought of a local artist beautifying a local business made me smile (I later found out that the name of the artist is Kuki Gomez). I lingered for a second more to take in vibrant colors of the tape, the cute neon sign that spells out Spicy Moon in Chinese (Málà Yuè), and the black and white mural next to the entrance before telling Nick that I would be back soon.
Notes:
It is important to note that, in many instances, the restaurant owners themselves are not the only ones at fault, as they need to achieve certain profit margins in order to keep the restaurant open at all. This is especially true of mom-and-pop shops. Oftentimes, there are a multitude of external factors, from unfavorable laws to sky-high third-party fees, that make it difficult to operate a restaurant profitably.
Raspberry Matcha Latte — A Recipe and Mini Origin Story
The first raspberry matcha latte that I made!
I’ve always been a fan of strawberry matcha lattes. Boba Guys has a great one, as does Percolate (my FAVORITE boba place in LA). However, instead of paying $10+ to get one delivered to me, I decided to try and make one myself!
Instead of just making a basic strawberry matcha latte, I put a little twist on it and made a raspberry matcha latte. Raspberries are one of my favorite fruits ever, and I figured that the tartness would pair well with the bitter / earthy flavors of the matcha. I was right! I’ve been drinking this latte almost every day this week, and I especially like drinking it in the afternoons when I’m just a liiittle hungry but not hungry enough to snack on anything substantial.
Potential Benefits of Matcha
For those of you who typically need a little pick-me-up during this time of day, this drink is perfect for you. The sweetness of the homemade syrup will give you a little energy boost, while the naturally occurring, slow-release nature of the caffeine in the matcha powder will help you sustain that energy through the rest of the work day without causing you to crash. This characteristic of matcha (and of most other teas) is what makes it a unique source of caffeine. The amino acid L-theanine (present in all tea leaves; it’s what gives tea its distinct umami flavor profile) promotes relaxation and harmonizes with the caffeine to deliver a calming, smooth wave of alertness.
In addition, because you are consuming the whole tea leaf when you drink matcha (vs. just drinking tea water), you are by default consuming more vitamins, minerals and antioxidants than you would by just brewing up some green tea! There are sources all over the internet that tout the superfood properties of matcha and how it can do things like boost your metabolism and help lower cholesterol levels.
I am not a doctor by the way (much to my parents’ dismay), so please don’t quote me! If you want to learn more about the benefits of matcha, you can click here, here or here.
Origins of Matcha
Of course, before posting this recipe, I had to do a little homework on the origins of matcha. Although matcha has only recently become mainstream in America, it’s been around for over a thousand years. I’d always thought that matcha originated in Japan, but turns out it actually has roots in China!
Apparently, during China’s Tang Dynasty (which began in 618 and ended in 907), tea traders would mix pulverized tea leaves with salt and steam the mixture to form stackable blocks that made the tea easier to transport and trade. Then, during the Song Dynasty (from 960 to 1279), Zen Buddhists began making powdered tea from the dried tea leaf blocks and would make the powder into a drink by whisking it with hot water. During this time, a Japanese Buddhist Monk who was studying in China brought some tea powder back with him to Japan, where the method of making matcha was perfected and woven into the the country’s cultural traditions and history.
The incorporation of matcha into specialty drinks and desserts (matcha ice cream, matcha crepe cake, matcha Kit Kat, etc.) is a relatively recent phenomenon (within the past 2 - 3 decades) and seems to be getting more and more popular as East Asian ingredients and flavors have become more mainstream. Back when I was in high school, many of my friends had never even heard of matcha before, and Starbucks didn’t even have a matcha latte on their menu yet (it might have been called “green tea latte” or some other obscure name, but I definitely don’t remember seeing the word “matcha” anywhere on the menu)!
Today, you can find matcha of various grades all throughout Japan— from the free matcha offered at hot water stations in conveyor belt sushi bars to the expensive, ceremonial grade matcha used for traditional tea ceremonies, that varieties of matcha that are available for purchase can be overwhelming at times.
I will say this though: the type and grade of matcha that you buy DOES make a difference. I’ve had so many friends and family members tell me that they hate the taste of matcha, only to change their minds after having a cup of good matcha (Patrick, I am looking at you). Do NOT just blindly buy the first matcha that you see on Amazon! My two favorite stores to get matcha from are Lupicia (the best bang for your buck) and Ippodo (they have a physical store in NYC). Ippodo has a nice guide on their website that outlines the different types of matcha and explains the different flavor profiles of each type.
As always, I am not a historian, so please forgive me and let me know if I’m butchering any aspects of the history behind matcha. This is just a very abbreviated summary of what I’ve gathered from reading articles online.
This one’s a strawberry + raspberry matcha latte!
The Recipe (2 servings)
Utensils needed:
Matcha whisk (yes, this is absolutely necessary)
Small bowl for whisking
Clear glass jar or mug
Reusable straw (trust me on this one; it tastes better through a straw)
For the syrup:
Ingredients:
6 oz raspberries
Sweetener of choice (monk fruit sweetener works really well for this recipe, and there’s no weird aftertaste!)
Water
OPTIONAL: 1 TSP of corn (or other vegetable) starch
Steps:
Wash a small, 6 oz container of raspberries, and put them in a mini saucepan
Fill the saucepan with just enough water so that the berries are about 1/3 of the way submerged
Pour your sweetener of choice over the berries. You can be generous! This is meant to be a concentrated syrup, so it’s okay if it tastes too sweet at first; you can always just use less syrup in the drink. With raspberries, you definitely want to add enough sweetener, or else the tartness of the berries will overwhelm the whole drink
Simmer on low heat over the stove top for about 10 minutes
OPTIONAL: Dilute 1 TSP of corn starch or another vegetable starch in 1 TSP of water and stir into the pot. This will help the syrup thicken into a nice, “jammy” consistency. However, I don’t really like using fillers in my food, so I would personally skip this step
Let the syrup cool down
For the drink:
Ingredients:
Steps:
After the syrup has cooled, scoop half of it into a clear glass jar (this is KEY because you want to be able to see all the pretty colors!)
Add some ice cubes (I like my drinks super icy, so I add like 12 ice cubes hahaha)
Pour in about 8 oz of oat milk (you can use any plant-based milk, but I prefer oat milk for my matcha lattes because it gives it a nice, creamy consistency)
Whisk 1 - 2 TSP of matcha with 1 - 2 TBSP of water in a small bowl until a pourable paste is formed (I like to go heavy on the matcha, so sometimes I’ll use up to 1 TBSP, hehe). Make sure that you whisk away all the clumps!
Pour the matcha paste into the glass jar and watch it swirl into the oat milk
Stir stir stir and enjoy! I actually don’t like to stir my drink all the way, as I kind of like having the fruity layer at the bottom, but it’s totally up to you!
OPTIONAL: If you prefer a lighter drink, feel free to add some water or almond milk to thin it out. This drink is pretty filling, so sometimes I’ll just use less oat milk and use more almond milk to make a thinner drink
Vegan Bibimbap - A Recipe and Mini History Lesson
The finished product
I never planned on sharing any recipes on my blog, but COVID-19 has forced us all to change our plans, amirite?
Anyways, I gotta say that I was super proud of how pretty (and yummy) this bibimbap turned out to be, so I thought I’d share how I made this with all of you. I’m no chef (I literally only started cooking out of absolute necessity during quarantine so that I wouldn’t starve to death), and I don’t really know how to share recipes “the proper way” with fancy checklists and step by step instructions, so this post will be more like a stream of consciousness.
Before we get into the whole thing, I just want to put out a disclaimer that I am very “flexible” when it comes to cooking in that I don’t typically follow precise measurements. I have two reasons for this: One, I hate washing dishes, and dirty measuring spoons / cups are a pain to clean. Two, I grew up in a very traditional Chinese household where measuring instruments weren’t even part of the kitchen vocabulary (if you know, you know). Therefore, I typically just “cook to taste” and adjust the recipe as I go. That’s why, for the most part, you won’t see me giving out precise measurements for anything. It’s not that I don’t want to, it’s just that I literally don’t even know what the “right” measurement for any of the ingredients actually is, haha.
History of Bibimbap
***Disclaimer: I am not a historian, so please forgive me and let me know if I’m butchering any aspects of the history behind this dish.
Alright, let’s talk about bibimbap. I LOVE bibimbap for a variety of reasons: it’s warm, it’s nourishing, it contains so many different vegetables, and it can easily be made vegetarian or vegan! As I was researching the origins of bibimbap, I came across a few articles that explain the humble origins of the dish; apparently, bibimbap originated in rural Korea and was invented as a convenient way for working class mothers and wives to quickly whip up a nutritious, tasty meal when there wasn’t enough time or space for a traditional meal complete with banchan (small Korean side dishes that are served with almost every meal) while doubling as a way to utilize leftovers and kitchen scraps. One of the papers that I read suggests that bibimbap was also popular with the rich and among high ranking government officials.
TLDR; anyone can eat it, and it’s just so damn delicious. If you want to learn more about the history and origins of bibimbap, I’ve linked a few informative papers and posts that I found helpful during my research in the notes section at the bottom of this post.
The Recipe
This particular bibimbap that I made (the one pictured) is 100% vegan and 200% yummy. The one I made separately for Patrick has a fried egg on top for extra protein, but the yuba noodles in my bowl were enough protein for me.
This dish might look hard to make, but it’s actually incredibly easy! In fact, I’m typically able to make it in under an hour (which is good for me, since I’m clumsy and slow AF in the kitchen). It’s so filling and nourishing — the perfect, guilt-free way to replenish your body after a long, hard day of work. It’s also pretty to look at, which definitely doesn’t hurt.
Instead of laying out the recipe step by step (since there’s really no “order” that you need to follow), I’m just going to go over each component of the bowl in order of appearance. Keep in mind that, depending on how long it takes you to cook every item, some of the things you cooked and set aside in the beginning might get cold, and you might have to reheat your bowl before you eat it. Maybe I’m just super slow at cooking, but I always have to pop the bowl into the microwave for a minute or two before serving. If you’re able to find a good workaround for this, let me know!
A wild bibimbap in its natural habitat
Clockwise, starting from the top:
Carrots - I just grated some raw carrots and set them aside. Super simple, nothing fancy here. Some people like to cook their carrots, but I prefer the crunch from raw carrots, and they’re more nutritious this way anyways!
Rice - I cooked some medium-grain white Japanese rice in the rice cooker and sprinkled on some black sesame seeds (Patrick scooped it into a cute little ball for me hehehe).
Seaweed - I took some dried wakame seaweed that I got my the local Japanese market downstairs, cooked it in boiling water for about 3 minutes, strained it and dressed it with a mix of sesame oil, soy sauce, mirin and monk fruit sweetener (you can use any sweetener of choice). I topped the resulting seaweed salad with white sesame seeds for funsies (sort of a yin / yang situation going on with the black and white sesame seeds, haha).
Zucchini - I chopped the zucchini into thin strips and cooked it lightly with sesame oil and a tiny bit of salt. You can add some crushed garlic if you’d like, but I skipped it this time around because I didn’t want to have to wash the garlic crusher, lol.
Mushrooms - I like using shiitake mushrooms because they give off an amazing umami flavor, though you can use almost any kind of mushroom you’d like (enoki and oyster mushroom would work great as well). I just chopped them up and cooked them in a little bit of sesame oil, soy sauce and hoisin sauce. I added a touch of salt towards the end to bring out the umami flavor a bit more, but you can totally skip this step if you’re watching your sodium intake.
Kimchi - From Whole Foods. I had originally been using the big jar of kimchi that you can get at Costco, but I later realized that the Costco one isn’t 100% vegan because it contains anchovies, so I’ve since switched to a vegan brand. I’m currently using one by Mama O’s, which you can find at Whole Foods, but there are a ton of vegan kimchi brands out there; just make sure to read the label and make sure that there are no fish products on the ingredients list!
Spinach - Blanched and drained (I don’t usually put any seasoning on this, since the gochujang will flavor everything in the bowl and you don’t want your bowl to become too salty)
Center:
Yuba Noodles - Packaged and precooked by Hodo Foods (available at Whole Foods). I just heated them up a bit in the pan before serving. I got the spicy flavor, but they have a sesame flavor as well that I want to try.
Dumpling - Leftover veggie dumpling pan fried with the little bit of residual sesame oil from cooking all of the veggies earlier
Microgreens - Got these at Whole Foods as well (seeing a trend?)
Gochujang - Vegan gochujang by Mother-in-Law’s (available at Whole Foods)
Some tips:
For the raw veggies and anything that can be served cold, make sure to prepare them ahead of time so that your hot items don’t get cold
Cook the veggies one by one if you want to be able to plate them / make them look pretty, but it’s totally fine to just cook everything together if you’re short on time and don’t care about taking pictures for the gram
To make the pretty lines with the gochujang, I spooned some into a plastic baggie, cut off one of the corners, and used it as a makeshift squeezy tube
Sesame oil burns at high temperatures, so make sure to cook everything using medium / low heat
The gochujang will flavor everything in the bowl, so don’t worry if some of your veggies don’t taste salty enough on their own
Notes:
Here’s a well-written research paper all about the history, origins and different types of bibimbap
Here’s a more casual fun post that’s easy and fun to read
Spicy Moon — Shattering the Oxymoron of “Vegan Chinese Food” while Celebrating Sichuan Cuisine
First visit: February 2020
Price: Affordable
Cuisine: Chinese, Sichuan
Vibe: Eclectic, hip, cozy
Address: 328 E 6th St, New York, NY (East Village)
Veg options: Everything is vegan!
COVID-19 delivery: Yes!
The eclectic storefront in East Village
“Vegan Chinese food” is an oxymoron. “Vegan Sichuanese food” sounds like a typo. Since I was born in Chongqing, which was part of the Sichuan province until 1997, I grew up on a predominantly carnivorous diet. All of my favorite hometown dishes, including huíguō ròu (twice-cooked pork), yúxiāng ròusī (literally translates to fish-flavored shredded pork, but is essentially shredded pork in garlic sauce) and làzǐjī (commonly known as Chongqing chicken in American restaurants) were meat-based. Even vegetable dishes, such as stir-fried bok choy and wok-tossed string beans, were frequently enhanced with minced pork or leftover chicken broth. My parents and grandparents, who grew up in poverty during the Cultural Revolution with limited access to animal products, hammered into me the belief that eating meat at every meal was the key to a long, healthy life. “Aiya, look at wài pó,” my grandma would always lament, “bad health today because meat too expensive when me and wàigōng were young.” I was raised to believe that meat is to health the same way that the sun is to light and oxygen is to life. In my mind, vegetarian food was reserved for monks and angsty, rebellious teenagers, with no place in the life of the average person.
My aunt’s homemade yúxiāng ròusī
Eventually, after educating myself and reading countless books and articles on the merits of a plant-forward diet, I came to the conclusion that “everything in moderation” is probably the right mantra to follow, and that incorporating more plant-based foods into my diet would probably do me some good. As much as I loved (and still love) meat, I loved my body more, and I was prepared to sacrifice a steak or two if it meant waking up feeling better every day and leading a healthier, more balanced life. Thus, I decided to begin eating more plant-based meals and to significantly decrease my consumption of animal products. I don’t want to get into a debate about whether eating meat is actually bad for you, but I think we can all agree that eating more fruits and veggies is something your doctor wouldn’t frown upon. Plus, eating plants is better for the environment than eating meat, which to me was the convincing cherry on top of an already compelling sundae. PSA: As I’ve stated in my bio, I am not vegan nor am I vegetarian. Your girl’s just trying to do better for herself and eat her greens.
To be honest, adopting a plant-forward diet has been much easier than I thought it would be. Most restaurants will let you sub out animal-based ingredients for plant-based alternatives such as tofu, beans or mushroom. Being Chinese, I grew up eating tofu pretty regularly (shoutout to mápó dòufu and dòuhuā(1), both Chongqing specialities) , so it wasn’t really a huge step to start replacing animal products with soy and other plant-based products. This was the easiest to do at health-conscious, fast-casual chains (e.g. Sweetgreen, Cava, Dig Inn, etc.), where you can simply omit meat and cheese from your salad or superfood bowl, followed by Thai restaurants, where fried tofu can easily take the place of animal protein in pad thai or pad see ew without significantly altering the flavor profile of the dishes, and the most difficult to do at authentic Chinese restaurants, where the meat itself is often memorialized in the name of the dish (think: twice-cooked pork, peking duck), and substituting chicken for tofu in your kung pao chicken (yes, contrary to popular belief, kung pao chicken, known as gōng bào jī in my province, is an authentic Sichuanese food) would almost certainly get you a death glare from the auntie refilling your lukewarm water(2).
Some dòuhuā that we had when we were in Chongqing
That’s why I was so excited when I learned that there was a 100% vegan Sichuan restaurant in the city that was actually good! I first heard about Spicy Moon from a NYC-based vegan influencer who goes by the handle @veganeatsNYC on Instagram. To my surprise, even a few of my carnivorous friends had been there before and had genuinely enjoyed the food. That was more than enough to convince me to drag Patrick and my lazy ass down to East Village on a dreary Sunday morning in the dead of winter.
As we approached the restaurant, my eyes were immediately drawn to the neon appliques that made up the psychedelic, web-like pattern on the store’s floor-to-ceiling window. My first thought upon seeing this was: “there’s no way this place is authentic! It’s trying way too hard to be another one of those edgy but underwhelming East Village eateries”. As I opened the door, I was shocked to see how small the restaurant was. There were a total of 25 - 30 seats crammed closely together in a long, rectangular space no larger than our tiny studio apartment. This was quite surprising, as I’m used to frequenting cavernous Chinese restaurants built to accommodate hundreds of guests, most of them multigenerational families, directed by the uniformed wait staff to squeeze around round tables topped with red tablecloths and lazy Susans. Spicy Moon is definitely a more intimate restaurant -- good for dates and small get-togethers, but not for annual family reunions. It was a good thing that Patrick and I had made a Yelp reservation in advance, or else we likely would have had to wait for a table.
The small but cozy interior
As soon as we entered the restaurant, we were immediately greeted by the staff and directed to a table for two towards the back (thank goodness because it was cold as f*ck that day). After we had settled in, our waitress brought over a glass pitcher full of room temperature water and gave us a few minutes to peruse the menu. The menu was printed double-sided on a 4” x 5” sheet of disposable paper and was accompanied by a pencil that you’re supposed to use to check off the dishes that you want to order. After a typical period of indecisiveness and me trying to convince Patrick that we needed to try everything on the menu because my eyes are bigger than my stomach, we decided to go with the mountain yam puff appetizer, followed by dan dan noodles, snow pea leaves with garlic and a tofu dry pot with jasmine rice.
After we handed our order slip to our waitress, I left the table for a hot second to use the bathroom, and the food was already on the table by the time I got back. At that point, Patrick had already previewed the dan dan noodles and informed me that they were possibly the best Chinese-style dry noodles that he’s ever had outside of China (when we were in China last summer, we ate noods every day and had zero regrets). With my hopes elevated and stomach screaming from hanger, I immediately stuffed some noodles into my mouth before Patrick could finish the entire bowl, and I was not the least bit disappointed.
The glorious dan dan noodles ($9.95)
These dan dan freakin’ noodles were 100% the best dan dan noodles I’ve ever had— even without the additional brownie points that they get for being vegan! The noodles themselves had the perfect amount of firm chewiness (believe it or not, it’s a herculean feat to be able to find noodles with a QQ(2) texture outside of Asia; they’re more often than not sad and soggy), and the sesame-based sauce was deliciously fragrant and juuust spicy enough to provide a pleasant kick without sending you running for tissues and milk. A lot of so-called dan dan noodles that I’ve had in the States taste one-dimensional, with sesame paste and store-bought chili oil being the only identifiable ingredients. Spicy Moon’s version, on the other hand, was complex: I could taste the sesame and chili oil, but I could also taste garlic, vinegar and the Sichuan peppercorns that gave the dish its quintessential málà flavor. The best part is that Spicy Moon was somehow able to deliver an authentic tasting Sichuan noodle dish without the pool of excess oil that typically sits waiting for you at the bottom of most Chinese noodle dishes. My only regret with this dish is that we didn’t order more.
The rest of our dishes were all very delightful, albeit nothing could measure up to the elite status of the dan dan noodles. The mountain yam puffs were essentially fried potato balls that came with a side of vegan queso. Not “authentic” in the traditional sense, but delicious nevertheless. The stir-fried snow pea leaves (my favorite vegetable!) were cooked just right, and the tofu dry pot had just the right amount of málà spice. I’ll be honest though, maybe it’s because I’ve had phenomenal lamb and beef dry pots that have made me biased towards meat-based versions of the dish, but the tofu dry pot didn’t blow me away. Next time, I would try a different tofu dish; perhaps the mápó tofu or the cumin style tofu. (Note: After I had initially written this review, I ordered the mápó tofu for delivery at the start of the COVID-19 outbreak. I don’t want to exaggerate, but it was definitely one of the best mápó tofus I’ve ever had. Even Patrick liked it, and he doesn’t usually like tofu! The sauce was spicy and wasn’t too numbing like a lot of mápó tofu dishes are, and the tofu was super soft and had a delicate, silken texture. It was definitely super oily, I’ll admit, but the flavors of the oil paired perfectly with the jasmine rice that came with the dish.)
Mountain yam puffs with vegan cheese ($6.95)
Snow pea leaves with garlic ($9.95)
Tofu dry pot ($15.95)
One interesting thing I noticed is that I didn’t feel nearly as bloated as I usually do coming out of a Chinese restaurant. Maybe it was because I felt good about myself since my meal was comprised entirely of greens and grains, or maybe it was because the magical dan dan noodles had cast a spell on me. Whatever it was, I definitely felt lighter and healthier than I had ever felt after a carb-heavy Asian meal. TL;DR, if you typically avoid going to Chinese restaurants because you hate that uncomfortable, greasy feeling that you get in your gut afterwards, fear not. Spicy Moon will leave you feeling satiated without putting you in a food coma.
Tips:
Make a Yelp reservation if you can, especially if you have a group of three or more.
Get the dan dan noodles. Just do it!!
The prices can add up if you order a bunch of appetizers, but you could easily make this an affordable meal by just getting a bowl of noodles. The dan dan noodles that Patrick and I shared would probably have been enough for one person.
In summary:
Hangry Alice rating: 5/5
Must get dishes: Dan dan noodles, mápó tofu
Skip: None— everything tastes great!
Notes:
Dòuhuā translates literally to bean flower, but the dish itself is essentially a tofu pudding that is typically eaten with chili oil and rice in my province.
In China, warm or room temperature water is the preferred way of drinking water, as it is commonly believed that cold water upsets the body’s natural chemistry and can cause indigestion and cramping.
According to the Michelin Guide, QQ is the bounciness associated with fresh handmade fish balls, glutinous rice balls, and certain types of noodles. The term originated from Taiwan, where Q sounds similar to the local word for “chewy”, but it’s evolved to mean a little more than that. The Asian version of al-dente, QQ foods are soft but not mushy - they must offer some resistance to the bite. Read more here.